The Standard at the Smith House - Nashville, TN



The Standard in Nashville is a bit of a legend. Back when the city was being built, the Standard, then known as the Smith house, served as a rooming house. These early citizens would become some of the most prominent residents in town.  After the boarding house closed, it was reopened as the Standard Club in the 1880's. A ballroom was added and what is believed to be Nashville's first bowling alley was placed downstairs in the basement. Everyone who was anyone went there for balls, revues, and weddings. 

 

Back in the fall on a football trip (go Titans!), we stumbled onto the Standard, now a restaurant in downtown. It was long after dinner, but Jamie, our host, seated us for a quick drink. He was so gracious, making us comfortable and telling the story of the Standard and its rich history. This Victorian townhouse has managed to turn parlors into dining rooms that are elegant, but not stuffy. 

 

I held on to the card Jamie gave me, and Joe vowed to come back. Valentine's Saturday was the perfect time! Joe called to make reservations and was assured the gluten allergy would not be an issue.... everything is made fresh to order, he was told.

 

When we arrived, I reviewed the menu and much to my chagrin, the first course is a crab bisque. I love crab bisque. I covet the creamy texture and the sherry spiked seafood. I can never have it though... usually it is thickened with flour. 

 

Not at the Standard. I asked the waiter to double check before I said "pass"  and he happily came back telling me that we were green light/go for a corn starch thickened bisque. It was PHENOMENAL.... just like the memories of a South Carolina Low Country crab soups. I wanted so badly to pick up my bowl and lick it but we were "dining". I wonder if Joe would have minded!

 

To accompany what was looking to be a fantastic, nouveau-Southern meal, we chose a Syrah. They were sold out of the bottle we selected, but the waiter brought a substitute: Two Angels. How appropriate for Valentine's. He realized that this bottle was more expensive than what we wanted, and offered (without us asking I may add) to discount the price to something in between the list price of both. It was unexpected but Joe really liked the fact that A) our waiter created a solution instead of us having to reread the wine list and offered a budget-oriented solution. Two Angels was perfection. Jammy on the front end with lovely dark berry and cherry notes, but spicy on the back like a Malbec, our server found a wine that satisfies both palettes wonderfully!

Let me for a minute continue to tell you about our waiter... he was like a friendly ghost. I knew he was there, in the house, making sure we were well taken care of, but he was so discreet that he seemed to hover in the background. The service was amazing. Really.

 

After enjoying the soup (and the wine), out came the chopped salad. I am such a dressing on the side kind of girl (I like a lighter hand due to the "Don't Drown Your Food" PSA's as a  child), but lately I want to try everything as the chef intends so long as it doesn't kill me. This salad was dressed so lightly but with just enough "sauce" to bind the mix of greens, bacon, and cheese together that I was in love. 

 

Next up, the entrees! We had ordered scallops with a potato and Brussel sprout hash and "bacon wrapped bacon", the Standard's signature dish. Joe and I had been talking about this bacon wrapped bacon for months. 

 

I love bacon. My family jokes that I could eat a whole slab for breakfast. I must say, I have never had such bacon flavor as the bacon wrapped bacon. A cured pork loin is wrapped in bacon, then served with a hash that contains, you guessed it, more bacon. It is rich. It is good. It is almost too much bacon. Is that even possible? 

 

The scallops had been sauteed in the grease from all that bacon I think. They had a wonderful salty taste with just a hint of sea brine. Seared on the outside, these scallops nearly quivered with tenderness on the inside. They were the most perfectly cooked scallops I have had in my life. Honest. The hash was a terrific, earthy compliment, that made me want to lick that danged plate a second time in one evening!

 

Finally, it was time for dessert. The best advice I ever received was that there's always room for ice cream; it goes in the cracks. Jamie makes a bananas foster tableside. We traded recipes (he can't use Bacardi 151 because of the fire marshall but he flames the bananas anyhow), and he told me about his time working in New Orleans at Brennan's and how he made them there. 

 

Joe selected a raspberry topped cheesecake. I stay clear of cheesecake in a restaurant. They are never as good as homemade.... except this one. It was a sour cream cheesecake - not too sweet - and perfectly browned on top. As much as I love bananas foster, this was like my mother's and I wanted it badly. It was worth risking the off-chance of flour in the creamy part. Joe let me have a bite or two. So, so good. The Standard knows how to do up some cheesecake. 

 

I could go on, but this is getting long. 

 

We ended the night finishing our wine in the bar. Even after we had abandoned ship, our server checked in on us. He was gracious, just like Jamie had been our first visit, and his mood seemed to match ours on this relaxed but upper-crust evening. We didn't want to leave, but it was late, so we made our farewells, promising to visit Jamie and the Standard again. 

 

 


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