One should never visit Prague and miss a pub, even avegetarian can find something to eat here. I was worried they would be a totalmeat fest, but I am happy to report they are not.

There are a lot – I mean a LOT – of pubs in Prague. I don’tknow if it is to cover the tourists and their need for thirst-quenching pilsnerin the summer, or if the Czech Republic’s national past time is checkers and apint. Nonetheless, there is a pub + 1 on every corner. We tried four, just forconvenience and good measure.

The pub plethora has a lot of variance and quality. I’m notsure how you tell a good one from a bad one. They are all smoky and dark and“intimate” with wooden chairs, Pilsner Urquell tablecloths, and Heinz condimentholders. 

On our first day in Prague, we popped into Pub 1.  The green neon sign out front led me tobelieve it would be a divine dive. Cheap – relatively so – Joe got rabbit (rustic, hardy, a former pet) andI went for risotto. Bugs looked tasty, the risotto was just regular rice withveg-all in it. I hat veg-all. With a passion. But it was $3, I was hungry, andit was there, so I ate.

At Pub 1 we learned that a) the check doesn’t come till yourbeer is finished, 2) it is roughly put down in front of you, with a grunt, and3) the money man (the guy with the leather pouch) comes by and takes yourmoney. The money guy may or may not speak English. You won’t know. He won’tspeak. This is true for all pubs.

Pub 2 – Kolkovna on V Kolkovne 8 was swanky, for a pub. Itwas one of the first Pilsner Urquell “Original” restaurants. I guess that makesit a chain. There are big copper beer vats in the basement, near the bathrooms.They had flaming meat on a skewer but Joe went for goulash in a bread bowl. Ihad the marinated cheese, which I had read about in guidebooks.  Can I just pause for a minute to sayyum. Seriously. 2 huge round hunks of Camembert marinated in olive oil andspicy peppers over a salad of emerald green lettuce and cucumbers. This was sogood I want to try to marinate my own cheese at home. It would be greatcocktail food. This was a great $18 lunch. All that said, it wasn’t exactlyChristmas day fare, which was when we were having it. And again, our waiter wassurly… even on Christmas.  Bahhumbug!

Pub 3 was a hole in the wall near the old town hall. I haveno idea how we found this charming little dive.  I had escargot, asparagus in cheese, and ham and pineapple in cheese.Stick with the $5 French snails and the pineapple. The asparagus was white andhad zero taste.  Joe had a $3 blueplate special. Meat loaf. Totally worth it. I love that we can eat lunchtogether for $15 with tip. I know it’s expensive compared to the old days butwe can’t do that at Chick-fil-a now!

Pub 4 was our final dinner. The Red Peacock is located in anold whorehouse, and dang proud of it – this pub was the clear winner. $3 merlotin hand, seated on our wooden bench, we were ready to peruse the tattered menuand wait an un-Godly amount of time for service to come round again. We eavesdropped on the college kids from country A, listened in to a group of30-somethings from country B, and watched a family almost have a melt-downwhile trying to leave.  

It was worth it. They were out of the smoked duck with plum sauce that I wanted, but thepate with cranberry chutney was home made and good. The trout almondine withbacon placed before me on the worn chequered tablecloth was some of the bestI’ve ever had – and was even served with a fish knife. I can’t even rememberwhat Joe had because I was so wrapped up in my flaky, tender, perfectlyseasoned fish. I do remember he had the loaf bread on the table and that was$1.50. If you are a celiac and the waiter brings it, tell him to take it as youwill be charged! Rustic, loud, smoky, surly, agitated, etc, the Red Peacock was everythinga Prague pub should be AND had great food for $30. Yummmm. 

The Red Peacock.... This is the place togo for a great Prague Pub experience. Believe me.